Original article

Use of plants in the gastronomy of the parish "O Anegado", in Jipijapa , Manabí , Equador

0000-0002-8596-5121Sonia Rosete Blandariz^{1  *}  , 0000-0002-9449-4915Yngrid Patricia Quimis Vite¹  , 0000-0002-8006-0825Romina Stephania Sáenz Véliz¹  , 0000-0002-1768-5566Alfredo Jiménez González¹ 

¹Universidad Estatal del Sur de Manabí, Jipijapa, Manabí, Ecuador.

ABSTRACT

The fundamental purpose of this research was to document the use of plant species in the culinary practice of the El Anegado parish, with a notable focus on their applicability as foods, condiments and beverages, especially relevant for visitors. To achieve this goal, group discussions, interviews and dialogues with local residents were used to capture and document their knowledge of plants used in traditional cuisine. A total of 41 species were identified, covering 24 families of gastronomic relevance. Most of these species are cultivated, reflecting the active interaction between local communities and the surrounding natural environment. Among the families, Fabaceae and Rutaceae stand out, which stand out for housing a greater number of species of culinary interest. 74 gastronomic uses were recorded, distributed in three main categories: drinks (29), edible plants (27) and condiments (18). It is important to note that the same species can be used for various culinary purposes. The importance attributed to species such as Musa paradisiaca and Zea mays is striking, which constitute the fundamental basis of numerous characteristic dishes of local gastronomy. The variety of species identified and the uses attributed to them reveal a rich and deep-rooted interaction between the community and its natural environment. The preservation of these culinary practices not only enriches the gastronomic experience, but also promotes the conservation of local biodiversity and the preservation of valuable traditions.

Key words: Plant species; ethnobotany; local gastronomy; culinary uses; food biodiversity

INTRODUCTION

In the field of gastronomy, the relationship between nature and culture has been an inexhaustible source of innovation and tradition (Hofstra and Huisingh, 2014). The use of plants for culinary purposes extends throughout human history, reflecting both the adaptation to the environment and the creativity of different communities. At the Latin American level, the use of plants in gastronomy has been used since immemorial times, even before the arrival of the Spanish to America. Native women use different types of plants for health, in the production of household utensils, and they discover their flavors and nutritional characteristics (Sánchez Trávez, 2017).

There are several researchers who have shown the importance of these uses for different cultures, and especially the species used in human nutrition. A research on the subject shows that gastronomy is a form of cultural expression that is nourished by the customs of its inhabitants, its geographical position and its historical past, as well as the conditions and economic opportunities of the group of people who share these customs, ideas and traditions (Macías et al., 2021; ^{Martínez Pacheco, 2021}; ^{Poveda Morales and Rivera Rosero, 2021} and Salas et al. 2021).

Ecuador is one of the most biodiverse areas on the planet. In the coastal region there is a wide range of native plant species, where our ancestors have been practicing their use as food. The study of these species for food use ^{(Poveda Morales and Rivera Rosero et al., 2021)} allows the rescue of knowledge, knowing the main traditional dishes and marking a gastronomic difference between peoples. Therefore, encouraging alternative tourism and, therefore, the use of plant species creates a symbolic and historical value for the El Anegado parish. This current study analyzes floristic diversity and its uses in gastronomy through a qualitative and quantitative approach. Giving importance to the knowledge and conservation of biodiversity based on tourism, as well as the efforts of producers in the sustainable management of natural resources and the promotion of high-quality products for local development. Thus, the findings will have important implications in the development and implementation of tourism strategies, particularly for the life cycle issues of tourism products.

Study area

The El Anegado Parish belongs to the Jipijapa canton, province of Manabí, and coastal region of Ecuador (Figure 1). It has a territorial area of 117.05 Km². It has a population of 6,864 inhabitants, positioning itself as one of the most populated parishes in the Jipijapa canton. It is located in the tropical megathermal climatic zone. It has a warm semi-humid climate whose temperature ranges between 23 and 24ºC. Its rainfall is between 700 to 1,800 mm, which, added to an evapotranspiration between 1,250 mm to 1,450 mm, results in a water deficit between 375 to 650 mm that occurs in the months of June to December. The relief is mainly composed of three environmental units: "Cordillera Chongón Colonche", "Medio Alluvial" and "Structural Reliefs and Tertiary Hills". The third environmental unit covers 59.15% of the total surface, followed by "Cordillera Chongón Colonche" with 36.45%; these two being the main formations found in the territory.

Fig. 1.  - El Anegado study area, Jipijapa canton, Manabí province, Ecuador 

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The interviews were carried out following the classic methodology used in ethnobotany, previously described by other researchers ^{(Balemie y Kebebew, 2006}; ^{Addis et al., 2013}, ^{Hankiso et al., 2023}, Al ^{Yamini et al., 2023)}. These interactions focused on group discussions and conversations with members of the local community of El Anegado Parish, through which detailed information was collected about the plant species used in its gastronomy.

The research approach classified the information obtained into different categories: edible plants (including natural fruits), condiments (plants used to add flavor to various stews and popular dishes) and beverages (alcoholic, infusions, decoctions, soft drinks and juices). The data was collected through informal conversations with traditional cooks, and was complemented with questionnaires specifically designed to identify the plants used by them in their culinary preparations. In addition, both the harvesting process and the preparation of the different dishes were closely observed. This approach allowed a careful analysis of the use attributed to edible plants, both wild and cultivated, as well as the identification of the parts of the plants most used by the participants (leaves, fruits, flowers, roots, among others).

The survey was structured in three sections. The first part collected information on the profile of the respondents (nationality, gender, age, level of education), since it is crucial to understand the context of the shared knowledge. The next two parts focused on utilization practices of local species. In total, 60 individuals participated in the survey (42 women and 18 men) (Figure 2), with the majority of them (39 respondents) having graduated from higher education (Figure 3).

Additionally, an observation tour was carried out in the area to identify and photograph the species present. For taxonomic identification, a series of Ecuadorian floristic catalogs were used and botanical specialists advised in the classification process.

Fig. 2.  - Distribution of the interviewed population by sex in the El Anegado parish, Jipijapa canton, Manabí, Ecuador 

Fig. 3.  - Distribution of the interviewed population by educational level in the El Anegado parish, Jipijapa canton, Manabí, Ecuador 

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

A total of 41 species were documented in a first record, all of them belonging to 24 families of gastronomic relevance for tourists exploring El Anegado Parish (Table 1). The largest proportion of these species correspond to cultivated varieties (80 %) (Figure 4), which are predominantly found in orchards, land adjacent to homes and gardens. The families Fabaceae (with 5 species) and Rutaceae (with 5 species) top the list in terms of species diversity. They are followed in descending order by the families Solanaceae (3 species), Lamiaceae (3 species), Sapotaceae (2 species), Poaceae (2 species), Arecaceae (2 species), Bixaceae (2 species) and Amaryllidaceae (2 species).

The findings obtained from the survey highlight that the species most used in local gastronomy are those grown in orchards, land near homes and gardens. On certain occasions, the extraction of wild species, such as: Cochlospermum vitifolium, Crescentia cujete, Inga edulis and Prosopis juliflora, present in the forests of the mountainous region of the parish. These results coincide with what was previously reported by ^{De la Torre et al. (2008)} for the country, where most of the registered useful species are cultivated (751 species, representing 15 %), while the rest are found in the wild (49 species; <1%). It also stands out that the legume family (Fabaceae) is the one that exhibits the greatest diversity of useful species. In general terms, the families most abundant in useful species are also the most diverse both nationally in Ecuador and globally.

A total of 74 gastronomic uses were recorded, distributed in three categories: drinks (29), edible plants (27) and condiments (18). It is important to mention that the same species can be used for multiple culinary purposes. The key species Musa paradisiaca and Zea mays stand out in the perception of those surveyed, which constitute the basis of numerous emblematic dishes in local gastronomy. Next in importance are the species of the Citrus genus, used both in drinks and in the seasoning of various dishes. It should be noted that these species are grown in the gardens and patios of homes. Another widely mentioned species is Eryngium foetidum, whose main use is in the preparation of soups, followed by Plectranthus amboinicus and Mentha spicata.

Among the species that stand out for their versatility in terms of the uses derived from their fruits are Averrhoa carambola and Vitex cymosa. These plants exhibit a wide range of applications, ranging from consumption in their natural state to inclusion in preserves, juices and jams. Obviously, their ability to adapt to different culinary preparations makes them exceptionally versatile and valuable options for local gastronomy.

The analysis that fruits are the parts of the plants most used in local gastronomy highlights the importance of these elements in the food culture of the community studied. The preference for fruits is attributed to their variety of flavors, textures and nutrients, which makes them versatile ingredients for various culinary preparations. The presence of similar results in other studies, such as those carried out by ^{Balemie and Kebebew (2006)}, ^{Addis et al. (2013)} and ^{Pardo Salas et al. (2023)}, suggest a consistency in the importance of fruits in culinary practices not only in the community studied, but also in other regions and cultures. This consistency is related to the availability and accessibility of the fruits in surrounding natural environments, as well as deep-rooted culinary traditions that have endured over time.

Within the repertoire of species used in the production of beverages, Averrhoa carambola stands out, whose predominant use is in its natural form and in the preparation of juices, due to its distinctive authentic flavor. In addition, it is used in the creation of jams and preserves, thus expanding its versatility in local gastronomy. Regarding the species considered edible, it is interesting to note that the majority of respondents mention the use of Vitex cymosa in the production of preserves. On the other hand, Inga edulis is characterized by being consumed mainly in its natural state, while the fruit of Chrysophyllum Cainite is used mostly unprocessed, directly in nature.

In the context of plants intended for use as condiments, respondents highlight that, since ancient times, they have used Eryngium foetidum leaves to enhance the flavor and aroma of foods, considering them an easily accessible resource in the community. In the case of Mentha spicata, Cymbopogon citratus and Plectranthus amboinicus, are specifically used in soups to provide flavor and aroma, as well as in infusions to relieve stomach upsets. This set of spices highlights the rich diversity of ingredients that enrich and distinguish the local culinary tradition.

Table 1.  - Inventory of plant species for gastronomic use in the El Anegado parish, Jipijapa canton, Manabí province, Ecuador. 1 - Edible plants (includes natural fruits, sweets), 2 - Condiments (plants to flavor different stews and popular dishes), and 3 - Beverages (alcoholic, infusions, decoctions, soft drinks, juices) 

Scientific Names	Common name	Family	Applications
wild species
Acnistus arborescens (L.) Schltdl.	cojojo	Solanaceae	1
Acrocomia crispa (Kunth) C.F.Baker ex. Becc.	corozo	Arecaceae	1
Cochlospermum vitifolium (Willd.) Spreng	bototillo	Bixaceae	3
Crescentia cujete L.	mate	Bignoniaceae	3
Eryngium foetidum L.	cilantro	Apiaceae	2, 3
Inga edulis Mart.	guaba	Fabaceae	1, 3
Prosopis juliflora (Sw.) DC.	algarrobo	Fabaceae	1
Phytelephas aequatorialis Spruce	cady	Arecaceae	3
Cultivated species
Allium cepa L.	cebolla	Amaryllidaceae	2, 3
Allium schoenoprasum L.	cebollín	Amaryllidaceae	2, 3
Annona muricata L.	guanábano	Annonaceae	1, 3
Arachis hypogaea L.	maní	Fabaceae	1
Averrhoa carambola L.	carambola	Oxalidaceae	1, 3
Bixa orellana L.	achiote	Bixaceae	2
Cajanus cajan (L.) Huth	frejol palito	Fabaceae	1
Capsicum annuum L.	pimiento	Solanaceae	2
Carica papaya L.	papaya	Caricaceae	1, 3
Chrysophyllum cainito L.	caimito	Sapotaceae	1
Citrus × paradisi Macfad.	toronja	Rutaceae	1, 2, 3
Citrus × sinensis Osbeck	naranja	Rutaceae	1, 2, 3
Citrus reticulata Blanco	mandarina	Rutaceae	1, 2, 3
Citrus× limonia Osbeck	limón mandarina	Rutaceae	1, 2, 3
Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf	hierva luisa	Poaceae	2, 3
Kalanchoe pinnata (Lam.) Pers.	hoja de Aire	Crassulaceae	3
Mammea americana L.	mamey serrano	Calophyllaceae	1, 3
Mangifera indica L.	mango miguelillo	Anacardiaceae	1, 3
Manihot esculenta Crantz	yuca	Euphorbiaceae	1
Mentha spicata L.	hierbabuena	Lamiaceae	2, 3
Musa paradisiaca L.	plátano	Musaceae	1, 3
Persea americana Mill.	aguacate	Lauraceae	1, 3
Phaseolus vulgarisL.	frejol babita	Fabaceae	1
Plectranthus amboinicus L.	orégano grande	Lamiaceae	2, 3
Pouteria sapota (Jacq.) H.E. Moore & Stearn	zapote	Sapotaceae	1, 3
Psidium guajava L.	guayaba	Myrtaceae	1, 2, 3
Ribes rubrumL.	grosella	Grossulariaceae	1, 2, 3
Ruta graveolens L.	hoja de Ruda	Rutaceae	2, 3
Solanum lycopersicum L.	tomate	Solanaceae	1, 2, 3
Stenocereus queretanoensis (F.A.C.Weber ex Mathes.) Buxb.	pitajaya silvestre	Cactaceae	1
Vitex cymosa Bertero ex Spreng	pechiche	Lamiaceae	1, 3
Zea mays L.	maíz	Poaceae	1, 3
Zingiber officinale Rosc.	jengibre	Zingiberaceae	1, 2, 3

Fig. 4.  - Percentage of wild and cultivated species used in gastronomy in the El Anegado parish, Jipijapa canton, Manabí Province, Ecuador 

This study has shed a deep and enriching vision on the intimate relationship between local biodiversity and gastronomy rooted in the El Anegado Parish, Jipijapa, Manabí, Ecuador. Through the application of ethnobotanical methodologies, it has been possible to meticulously capture and analyze the interaction between plant species and their role in the creation of dishes that tell stories of identity and tradition.

The diversity of plants used for drinks, foods and condiments highlights the wealth of culinary resources that this community has been able to take advantage of and adapt over time. The combination of species grown in orchards and gardens, along with those extracted from nearby forests, has given rise to a palette of flavors and aromas that not only satisfy nutritional needs, but also weave a deep link with the land and local culture.

The presence of multifunctional species, such as Averrhoa carambola and Vitex cymosa, demonstrates the culinary versatility that some plants bring to gastronomy. These species not only provide unique flavors, but also adapt to various uses, from consuming them naturally to incorporating them into more elaborate preparations such as jams and preserves. Traditional seasonings, such as Eryngium foetidum , Mentha spicata , Cymbopogon citratus and Plectranthus amboinicus, illustrate how plants can be used to enhance flavors and address specific health needs. These culinary practices passed down from generation to generation reveal the accumulated wisdom of the community in using the beneficial properties of plants.

The relevance of plants enriching local gastronomy, not only as culinary ingredients, but as fundamental elements of the history and cultural identity of the El Anegado Parish, is conclusively manifested through this research. The ethnobotanical knowledge shared by local residents underscores the close interdependence between nature and culture, serving as a link between the natural environment and traditions embedded in the community. This insight not only highlights the relevance of plants from a food perspective, but also as carriers of cultural meaning and heritage.

The studies by ^{Addis et al. (2013)} and ^{Balemie and Kebebew (2006)} in Ethiopia corroborate the universality of this connection between plants and culture, evidencing its presence in various communities around the world. Additional research conducted in Ecuador ^{(De La Torre et al., 2008)} and Mexico (Pardo Salas et al., 2021) supports the connection between nature and culture in various geographic regions. The interdependence highlighted in these studies suggests that communities find in plants not only resources for food, but also elements that shape their identity and ways of life. This analysis highlights the importance of recognizing and preserving ethnobotanical knowledge, as it not only reveals the intricate relationship between plants and local culture, but also highlights the need to save these practices rooted in the interaction between people and their natural environment.

Acknowledgements

We sincerely appreciate the support provided by the State University of the South of Manabí (UNESUM), for providing the favorable framework for carrying out this study in the context of the Ecotourism-Forest Program and for the following projects that have been fundamental in the development of this research:

• To the research project "Biodiversity of interest for tourism in the coastal region of Ecuador." Their commitment to research and the promotion of biodiversity has been essential to our work.

• To the Research Project "Inventory of biological resources of interest for local development in the El Anegado parish, Manabí, Ecuador", for its active participation in the conclusion and linking of this study. Their focus on the identification and valuation of biological resources relevant to local development has significantly enriched our work.

The contribution of both projects has been crucial to the successful completion of this research, allowing us to better understand the interaction between biodiversity, gastronomy and local identity in the El Anegado parish, Manabí, Ecuador. Our thanks go to your valuable support and commitment to research and community development.

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Received: August 17, 2023; Accepted: September 01, 2023

^*Autor para la correspondencia: [e-mail]

Los autores declaran no tener conflictos de intereses.

Los autores han participado en la redacción del trabajo y análisis de los documentos.