Abstract

TORRES HUGUES, Ronnie. Analysis of Fernandez and Torres`s method for wave transformation. riha [online]. 2015, vol.36, n.2, pp. 31-44. ISSN 1680-0338.

This work involves continuity with other works made with Fernandez and Torres's method which is an empirical expression able to simulate wave transformation within the surf zone. It is shown how coefficients in that zone represent energy dissipation due to wave breaking and bottom friction. A set of tests are made to analize its behaviour as a function of the density of points in the distance to the coast, of profile irregularity and of turbulence and bottom friction before the breaking point. The posible relationship betwen Irribarren number and the «n» exponent is analized. Tests were compared with measurements by Horikawa and Kuo.

Keywords : mathematical model; waves; wave breaking.

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